Tucked away in the heart of the Greater Caucasus Mountains, you’ll find Svaneti—a mesmerizing region in Georgia that resembles something out of a fairy tale. Picture towering peaks, lush valleys, and charming villages dotted with ancient Svan towers dating back to the 9th century. While each season has its charm, winter brings a magical transformation to Svaneti that beckons a closer look. With its unique geography and pristine landscapes, Svaneti is a true paradise for skiers, free riders, and snowboarders, offering an unparalleled experience in a breathtaking setting.
How to get to Svaneti
Photo Credit: Ann Svanidze
To get to Svaneti, there are several transportation options available depending on your starting point. Here are some common ways to reach this picturesque destination:
1. By Land From Tbilisi
To reach Mestia, the main town in Svaneti, you can opt for an 8-hour marshrutka (minibus) ride, a popular and affordable mode of transportation in Georgia. Marshutkas depart from multiple locations in Tbilisi including Station Square, and Navtlughi Intercity Bus Terminal.
Alternatively, you can choose the comfort and flexibility of a private car or a taxi from Tbilisi to Mestia, allowing you to travel at your own pace.
For those with time to spare, consider a detour through the Samegrelo region. You could stay overnight in Martvili or Zugdidi, or explore Kutaisi, a historic city in western Georgia. Regardless of your route, departing early the next morning for Mestia is advisable if you aim to hit the slopes upon arrival.
Another option is to take a train from Tbilisi to Zugdidi. Currently, there is only one morning train that departs Tbilisi, around 8:30 am and arrives in Zugdidi around 2-3 pm. You’ll likely find marshrutka or a shared taxi right away to get you to Mestia.
2. By Air
Take a 1-hour flight from Natakhtari Airfield to Mestia for the quickest and most convenient route to Svaneti. However, remember that this option is highly weather-dependent and may be subject to cancellation or postponement in unfavorable weather. Vanilla Sky operates flights and they provide a complimentary shuttle service from the city center for added convenience.
Photo Credit: Ann Svanidze
Tips for Travelers
- If you choose to drive yourself to Svaneti, it’s essential to be a skilled driver and ensure you have a suitable 4×4 vehicle equipped with appropriate winter tires. This precaution is particularly important because, upon reaching Mestia, you’ll encounter icy or snow-covered roads.
- Be prepared for long and winding roads if traveling by land, the journey can be a bit slow, yet undeniably breathtaking.
- If you opt for air travel, it’s wise to have a Plan B in case things don’t work out as planned.
- Book your accommodation in advance, especially during the winter peak season (December-March).
- The nearest airport to Svaneti is in Kutaisi, which is a 3-hour drive from Mestia. If you’re flying to Kutaisi, you can take a marshrutka or taxi to Mestia.
- If you choose to stay overnight in Martvili before heading to Mestia, don’t miss out on Karma Hostel Martvili—trust us, you’ll find yourself longing to return for another stay.
- Alternatively, if you choose to stay in Kutaisi before heading to Mestia, consider Black Tomato Hostel or Communal Kutaisi. Both are excellent options, boasting exceptional culinary experiences at Black Tomato Kitchen and Doli Restaurant, respectively.
- If you find yourself in Zugdidi, be sure to dine at Diaroni, a culinary haven known for its exquisite Megrelian dishes.
Where to Stay + Eat in Svaneti
Photo Credit: Ann Svanidze
Accommodation options in Svaneti vary widely, from charming guest houses to modern hotels, each providing a distinctive experience that complements the region’s charm.
We’ll highlight a few accommodations that we personally tried and loved:
White House Nakani: This cozy guesthouse offers a warm and inviting atmosphere, conveniently located in the center of Mestia. With comfortable rooms and personalized hospitality, White House Nakani provides a memorable stay for travelers seeking an authentic retreat in the mountains. They serve lovely breakfasts that should be pre-ordered the night before.
Old-House Hotel/Restaurant: Immerse yourself in Svaneti’s rich history at the Old-House Hotel. Surrounded by the traditional Svan Towers, this hotel exudes charm and character. Guests can expect comfortable accommodations infused with rustic elegance, along with a genuine taste of Svan culture. The onsite restaurant offers delicious local cuisine that we highly recommend.
Hotel Lahili: For those seeking maximum comfort amidst Svaneti’s natural splendor, Hotel Lahili offers an exquisite experience. From stylish rooms with modern amenities to gourmet dining options showcasing local flavors, this hotel caters to discerning travelers looking for refinement and relaxation in the heart of the Caucasus Mountains.
Lushnu Kor Restaurant and Beer Garden – A Favorite Among Locals.
Lushnu Kor Restaurant is a beloved dining spot frequented by locals, making it a must-visit for travelers seeking an authentic taste of Svaneti’s culture and cuisine.
Cafe Laila – Cafe Laila holds a special place in the hearts of Mestia’s residents and travelers alike, earning its reputation as one of the most beloved spots in town. Whether you visit in the morning for a leisurely breakfast or in the evening for a hearty dinner, you’ll always find the cafe buzzing and alive with both locals and tourists. With its inviting ambiance and friendly service, Cafe Laila is the perfect place to unwind after a day of skiing in Svaneti.
Photo Credit: Ann Svanidze
Traditional Svan dishes to try in Svaneti
Kubdari: A Svaneti Classic
When reminiscing about Svaneti cuisine, Kubdari often takes the spotlight as the quintessential dish. And rightfully so! Kubdari stands as one of the most renowned and delectable Svan dishes. A visit to Svaneti would not be complete without indulging in the flavorsome delight of Kubdari.
Tashmijabi: A Comforting Blend
Another must-try in Svaneti is Tashmijabi, a delightful blend of cheese and potatoes. The dish is simmered on the stove until the cheese melds seamlessly with the potatoes, creating a rich and velvety texture.
Millet Khachapuri or Fetvraal: Another staple of Svan cuisine
Millet khachapuri or fetvraal is an essential part of the Svanetian culinary experience. Cheese is generously spread onto millet, rolled up in dough similar to khachapuri, and baked to perfection. Unlike other flour products, fetvraal is only baked on one side, creating a unique and irresistible treat.
Millet Chvishtari: A Delightful Treat
Millet plays a prominent role in Svan cuisine, particularly in the creation of various baked goods. If prepared well, millet chvishtari is a true culinary gem with its gooey and cheesy flavor.
Svan Salt: A Flavorful Staple
No discussion of Svan cuisine would be complete without mentioning Svan salt. Prepared in various communities across Svaneti, Svan salt remains a vital ingredient in both main dishes and salads. Revered not only in Svaneti but throughout Georgia, Svan salt adds a distinct and flavorful touch to any culinary creation.
In Mestia, for vibrant nightlife and drinks
Photo Credit: Ann Svanidze
Erti Kava: Perfect for enjoying quality coffee from the early hours of the morning.
Krk Bar: A newly opened bar in the center of Mestia, great for socializing and enjoying drinks.
Twin Peaks: A lively gathering spot after hours for good vibes and evening fun.
Culture and Ancient Traditions of Svaneti – “Lamproba”
Photo Credit: Ann Svanidze
This mountainous region is not only known for its stunning landscapes but also for its deep-rooted traditions, shaped by the Svans—an ethnic group with a heritage dating back centuries. Among the many fascinating customs of Svaneti, one that stands out is Lamproba—a captivating ceremony that intertwines elements of both pre-Christian and Christian beliefs.
Held annually on February 14th, Lamproba holds great significance for the Svans. During this ritual, people traverse the snow-clad terrain, bearing flaming birch branches to their ancestors’ graves. These lamps are symbolically aimed at warming the souls of the departed, bridging the gap between the living and the dead.
The Lamproba ceremony transcends mere ritual. It is a deeply communal event where food, drinks, toasts, and prayers are shared among participants for hours on end. This sacred tradition serves as a testament to the enduring spirit of Svaneti, preserving age-old customs that continue to enrich the cultural tapestry of the region.
Svaneti Museum of History & Ethnography
While exploring Svaneti, a visit to the Svaneti Museum of History & Ethnography in Mestia is a must. This exceptional museum stands as one of Georgia’s finest, offering visitors a glimpse into the region’s vibrant past.
Within its walls, you’ll encounter a treasure trove of exhibits, including church artifacts, ancient manuscripts, weaponry, jewelry, coins, and historical photographs—all meticulously labeled in English for easy understanding.
Skiing in Svaneti
Photo Credit: Ann Svanidze
Still undiscovered by skiers, Svaneti offers an idyllic retreat for everyone seeking a little less crowd amidst breathtaking mountain scenery. Recent investments by the Georgian government have led to the development of two modern ski resorts outside Mestia, Hatsvali and Tetnuldi. For those seeking off-the-beaten-path adventures, Svaneti’s smaller villages offer unparalleled opportunities for ski touring and backcountry exploration. The prime skiing season spans from January through March/April.
Hatsvali Resort, nestled just above Mestia on the slopes of Zuruldi (2380 m), offers a more intimate skiing experience. Its proximity to central Mestia makes it easily accessible. Despite its modest size, the resort caters to all skill levels, from beginners to experts.
Tetnuldi Resort, situated approximately 15 km from the heart of Mestia, epitomizes the essence of a family-friendly destination with its diverse range of slopes and exceptional freeride opportunities. With a total length of 7 km, the skiing terrain spans from 1600 to 3200m above sea level, offering an extensive playground for enthusiasts of all levels.
