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Exploring Khevsureti: A Hidden Gem in Georgia’s North Caucasus

While planning your visit to Georgia one should definitely consider visiting Greater (north) Caucasus. There are many reasons for this and Khevsureti region – with its unique and fascinating setting – is just one of them. 

Khevsureti lies up north from the capital and shares a border with Chechnya. With less than 3,000 inhabitants Khevsureti  is arguably one of the most inaccessible regions of Georgia. One can travel by any means in summer but in winter road closes due to heavy snowfalls and only Barisakho remains accessible. 

Some inspiring medieval cultural monuments – castle-towers, ritual places, and tombs –  are still preserved in this picturesque region of Georgia.

Village Shatili

shatiliPhoto Source: Wild & Without

Located 1,400m (4,600ft) high, Shatili is known to be one of the most valuable and outstanding examples of Georgian vernacular architecture. With its fortress-settlement and some 60 towers in it, Shatili is a UNESCO World Heritage site since 2007. This is the place (just 6km/3.8miles away from the border) that successfully served as a fortress, loyally protecting Georgia’s northern pass from invaders during history. 

Overlooking the river Arghuni, Shatili is placed on a rock. The towers built in stone – served both protective and residential functions. Those buildings underwent a lot of turmoil through centuries and luckily are still there. So we suggest you spend one night inside and enjoy Khevsurian breakfast in the morning. Locals have everything sorted out for visitors, so use your chance: who knows when you’ll get  again to a fantastic place like this?

From Shatili starts a long trekking route to Tusheti through Atsunta pass and Tebulo. You can also visit Mutso which is 12km/7.5miles away. 

Every autumn here is an event called “Shatiloba”. This is a day dedicated to Shatili. It involves everything authentic, from mountain horse racing to making Khinkali and heavy drinking. It is a wonderful occasion to meet locals and see how the village breathes. Khinkali here is AMAZING so do not hesitate to taste it!

Abudelauri lakes

abudelauri lakesPhoto Source: Georgian Tour Adviser

Three small lakes are located in alpine zones at the foot of the Chiukhi Massi on a remarkable height of 2,812m/9,226ft. Lots of legends / myths are connected to these lakes. People also call them colorful lakes because each has a different tint: green, white and blue. With no fish inside, waters create an amazing interplay of colours in highlands of Khevsureti. Those are glacial lakes and rest on water from rain, snow and ice. During 6 months a year, the lakes are covered with ice which generally melts on late spring. Obviously lakes are really cold but I bet (if you’re in a good shape) you can swim in one of them.

Mutso is incredibly beautiful fortress standing on the high rocky hill at the elevation of 1880m. It takes short but steep ascent of 20 minutes to admire the best views, panoramas of the surrounding green, steep mountains and river gorge and sacred shrines. If you happen to be in this part of Khevsureti, don’t miss Mutso, even if  you don’t have a car with you and it will take you 3 hours walk from Shatili.

USEFUL INFORMATION

Traveling from Tbilisi – Barisakho (100km.) 3h. by Marshutka (shuttle bus)

Leaving every Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday and Sunday at 16:00 from Didube Bus Station.

From Barisakho to Tbilisi every Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday and Sunday at 09:00.

Tbilisi – Shatili 5h. by Marshutka (shuttle bus)

Leaving from Didube Bus Station every Wednesday & Saturday at 09:00 

Or from Navtlughi Station (close to Samgori Metro Station)  every Tuesday & Friday at 09:00.

From Shatili to Tbilisi every Wednesday, Thursday & Sunday at 12:00.

IF NEEDED here are some guide’s numbers: 

Mamuka  Arabuli, talks in Russian & English. Mob.: +995 599 741 199

Ivane Arabuli, talks in Russian. Mob.: +995 598 19 65 69

For renting a Jeep (MITSUBISHI PAJERO) or a horse (50 GEL= 20 USD)

contact Ivane Arabuli.

For spending a night in a historical tower in Shatili, contact the host: 

Shorena Chincharauli.

There are 6 double rooms available:

1 night 30 GEL (15 USD) + breakfast & dinner 60 GEL (30 USD).

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